A Pilgrimage to St James of Compostela

A Personal Story of the Challenge of Trust

“…our trust in the process of spiritual evolution that brings enlightenment to all”

Spirit of the Rainbow – Our Aims

As one of the key principles of Spirit of the Rainbow, trust in the process of our spiritual evolution acts as useful reminder for those who search for spiritual insight. Understanding this principle is one thing, however. Putting it into practice is another. Sometimes it is hard to place our faith in something that is not immediately evident. During challenging times we may even resist the notion of trust altogether. This is because the path ahead is obscured and we doubt we are moving in the right direction. Yet, as I am constantly learning, if we can find the grace to open ourselves even a little to the idea, we realise that support for our spiritual quest is right there.

This lesson was brought home to me when, in a spirit of exuberance and filial love, I agreed to join my mother on a pilgrimage to St James of the Compostela, or Camino in Spanish.

The way of the Camino

The Catholic Church has long encouraged people to go on pilgrimages to holy places, and so gain salvation through suffering. The inspiration for the Camino originates from the belief that the remains of St James, an Apostle of Jesus, are believed to be buried in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Since the beginning of the ninth century, pilgrims have followed the network of walkways that converge at the magnificent Cathedral in the old part of the city. Running through the Iberian Peninsula and other parts of Europe, the journey is taken on foot over days or weeks and challenges one both physically and spirituality. While you don’t need to be religious to walk the Camino, many people have some kind of spiritual intention in doing it. Others do it for the experience alone.

Man with backpack walking along the Camino path

Our journey begins

Starting at Sarria in Galia, northern Spain, we followed the shortest possible route of the Camino Frances – about 115km over six days. My idyll of the Camino centred around the joy of communing with nature; the freedom of a wanderer; the peace of mind that comes with connecting with the Spirit. I didn’t reckon with the logistical challenges of the journey.

My mother, Jasmine, was 86 at the time. While she had always exercised, she was getting frail and a 20km daily trek with a rucksack was out of the question. Instead, she set her own pace of about 6km a day and caught a taxi to our evening’s rendezvous. Each day it fell to me to arrange that taxi. I also had to find a place to stay each night and arrange to send on our bags the following morning to the next night’s place.

The challenge of not being in control

The fear of not knowing where I would sleep in the next 24 hours invaded my waking hours. My lack of Spanish made me feel inarticulate and frustrated. I balked at not being in control. It did not occur to me to tap into a reservoir of trust. My mother had a different perspective. She laughed at my frustration. Which didn’t help.

After three days I figured out a way of booking the taxi and accommodation. My stress levels subsided. I was semi-in-control.

I loved walking through the countryside and woods, the winding paths where trees on either side shaded and protected the travellers. There were cornfields and cows and brambles with sweet ripe berries. There were villages with broken-down houses, grain stalls standing on stilts to outfox the rats. Shouts of “Buon Camino” as we passed fellow pilgrims. Gilded statues of saints. The quiet of the churches. My restless mind still for the time being.

Stone farmhouse in Galicia along the Camino

Journey’s end

All the while the lure of Santiago pulled us as we progressed through the stages. Miles and blisters became nothing. Mum and I developed the bonhomie of fellow pilgrims, enjoying empanadas and vino tinto after a long day’s walk. I longed for the region’s capital where at last I would be free to enjoy two stress-free days before departing. Like a child I wanted to be free of responsibility.

On the last day after walking up a steep hill, the city slowly came into focus. We marvelled at the beauty of the Gothic architecture, walked the old rambling streets paved in flagstones. Mass in the Cathedral was inspiring: the grandeur and solemnity of the service. The connection with thousands of pilgrims who had walked this journey before us. The astonishment of the massive swinging botafumeiro. We’d made it.

But the greatest test of my trust was yet to come.

The botafumeiro in the Cathedral of Saint James of the Compostela

We awoke the following morning to an inconvenient truth. We’d picked up some “friends” along the way. We were infested with bed bugs. The horror dawned on me. We’d have to move all our stuff, decontaminate everything and find somewhere else to stay. The city was full. I could not make myself understood. Darkness fell.

I wept. Jasmine laughed. And told me to pray to Saint Anthony, the patron saint of lost things. Now, being raised Catholic this resonated with me. I have leant on Saint Anthony numerous times, and not just for lost things. Outwardly I raged. Inwardly I paused. Somehow my heart opened a chink. As we walked, I turned my head to the left and saw a light and stairs ascending to a hotel. They had one room for one night.

Trust in the spiritual process

This was not an epiphany, nor was my “suffering” a way to salvation. It was a simple yet profound lesson illustrating the value of trust in the Spirit. It showed me that despite our resistance, even the smallest effort to trust the process will guide us to where we need to be. I was humbled by the compassion of this gentle yet powerful force that shifted my focus from fear to grace. I just needed to be willing to be open to it.

By Thérèse Barton

The views expressed in this article are not necessarily those of Spirit of the Rainbow as a whole.

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